Our Trip to France
Our Trip to France
10-17 April 2004
We are really doing our best to take advantage of living "across
the pond" for these couple of years. After our little local outings in
East Anglia, and our highly
successful Christmas week trip to Edinburgh, we
finally ventured over to the "Continent" for a week in the Loire Valley
during the kids'
Easter break. We stayed at Kokopelli, a lovely little
gite (small farm) in their relatively young (1880s)
farmhouse.
It was a bit of strain getting there due to some snafus on the
France side of our travels, compounded by lack of sleep (we all got up
around 4.30am). Eurostar through the Chunnel was pleasant enough,
but we barely had enough time to change train stations in Paris and
were ripped off by a taxi driver... although he did get us to the station
with 5 minutes to spare. Then, after a 2 hour crowded train ride to
Tours, we find that the car rental office at the main train station had
closed in February (despite the map on the website),
requiring another frantic taxi ride to the another part of Tours where
we discovered the new office was located. It was nice to drive on the
right side of the road, at least. We then made what was supposed
to be a quick stop
for groceries (as we expected shops to be closed the next day for
Easter, and possibly Monday as well), but which turned into an
hour-long extravaganza at a Carrefour
hypermarché (picture a combination of Safeway and Target in a
place the size of CostCo). After a fairly uneventful and stunningly
beautiful 1.5 hour drive
along the Loire and through Saumur, we finally made it to within a
mile or so of the farm which is in the tiny village of Foye, but
couldn't find the right road. We had gotten off the directions at some
point, which
didn't have the actual route numbers (but had, instead, things like,
"After the small hamlet, turn left at the road with a sign saying 'La
Motte'", which means 'sod' in French... you can imagine how
many sods there are in France, so the sign wasn't unique),
and so we kept driving in and out of the same
small village (Nueil-sur-Layon). Fortunately, our cell phone worked in
France, so we were able to call our hosts for an extravagant sum
and discovered we were only
minutes away from the farm. Finally, we
arrived around 8.30pm, rather than our projected 5.30pm, so we simply
settled in for the night.
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Leave it to us to find a farm deep in the French
countryside that's owned by a British couple. Not only that, but they
just bought the place last summer, and we were their first official
guests. It was still a lovely place and we had a great time, despite
the disappointment of not having the kids exposed to lots of French
all week. The kids got to help search for chicken
and duck eggs (we had free fresh eggs all week) plus they got to
help feed the goats and play with the farm
dogs and cats. There was also a small playground and a playbarn
(attached to the main barn, but filled with toys for the
kids) for those times that we weren't out exploring.
The weather cooperated almost all week with lovely sunny days perfect
for expeditions through lush green countryside.
In July/August, Chelle and Andi pointed out, it's
very hot and very brown (California anyone?). It was cool enough
during our visit that we
found a chance almost every day to have coffee and hot cocoa, often
accompanied by pains aux chocolats or croissants
amandes. Tough life, I know.
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Check out the chickens roosting in a tree
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We spent Sunday at the farm, as it was Easter and
nothing would have been open
anyway. Our hosts, Andi and Michelle, organized a small egg hunt for their two
kids (Shay and Kaya) and Naomi and Rowyn. One of the dogs found and
ate two of the eggs, but the kids found plenty,
which they happily exchanged for bountiful chocolate treats.
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Kaya, who bears a strong personality resemblance to
Colleen P. of the Cardiff Rose
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Monday we ventured into the nearby town of
Doué la Fontaine, which had a huge fair going on for Easter
weekend.
Granted, the carnival rides and games could have been anywhere, but it
was fun learning to ask for barbe de papa (cotton candy), and the
saucisses (sausages) from the food stand were fabulous. Debbie
actually snagged a
stuffed SquirtTM toy (the kid turtle from Finding Nemo) for Rowyn
from one of those three-fingered claw machines (no comment
on how many euros that took), and Alan shot three poor, defenseless
balloons (they had just run out of Belgians) to win a stuffed ladybug
for Naomi.
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Round and Round they go!
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Tuesday we visited Saumur, the
closest small city, which has a fairybook castle on its highest
hill. The castle was closed, but we wandered around the outside a
bit, and then headed down into the town. It was our one slightly
rainy day, so we didn't walk around for very long. We had hoped to go
out to dinner, but we couldn't get through by phone to
one place, and every other place we drove out to was closed (for no
obvious reason; Easter Tuesday?), so we ended up getting pizza (oy!) from a
parked van in the middle of Neuil-sur-Layon, the fairly small village
near the farm.
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Château Saumur overlooks the town and the
river Loire
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Wednesday morning we visited
the Château
Montreuil-Bellay, a medieval fortress that had
lovely Renaissance
Towers added on later. The girls successfully climbed the ramparts
and defended the castle from invaders (fat German and American
tourists). After lunch we explored some nearby mushroom caves, La
cave vivante du champignon de Saint Maur. Incidentally, Saint Maur
is where Saumur gets its name in the typical slurring French fashion;
then again, good luck guessing how to pronounce Bicester in England
("bister").
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Defending the Ramparts!
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The entire
region is famous for its soft chalky hills that have been extensively
excavated for their "tuffeau" stone, which is used in a lot of
the buildings in the area. The resulting caves were then used as
dwellings by those who couldn't afford to build
regular houses (see Tolkien below). Many of the big caves are now
used by wineries for
perfect temperature control during fermentation, or by
mushroom farmers (see above). A half dozen or so of these caves are
now country restaurants, such as Les Caves de
Marson where we had dinner Wednesday night. The food was
cuisine traditionelle (country provincial) and featured
foué, or fouce (a flatbread much like pita)
made fresh out of a wood-fire oven (which was carved out of the soft
tuffeau stone, of course) stuffed with local foods such as
rillette (a potted
meat spread) and chevre (goat cheese), or topped with yummy
marinated mushrooms and torched (tarte flambé).
[snagged from tourist website: MONTREUIL-BELLAY
is the sole remaining medieval, walled town in Anjou. It is also
interesting because it
was the holiday home of author J.R.R. Tolkien, who used the area for
inspiration for many of the concepts in ''Lord of the Rings'' - in
particular, for the description of the Shire, which is based on the
rural utopia of the region. Any afficionado of the book should be able
to match the appearance of the château in
Montreuil with the description of a building in the book.]
Also maybe where he got the idea of Hobbits living in caves/hills?
Still, aren't we
glad he didn't call them "Troglodytes", which is what the French call
people who live/work in these converted caves.
Thursday we mostly hung
around the farm, as the girls can only take so much sight-seeing at a
time. Naomi got in some playground time, and Rowyn helped out in the
vegetable garden. Fortunately for us,
there's a small winery right next door to the farm. Michelle took us
adults over and introduced us to their
neighbors, who then very kindly took us into the main part of the
winery and let us sample straight from the big metal vats. The
classic wine of the region (Côte-de-Layon) is a very sweet white
aperatif (we were given a glass before dinner at the Cave de
Marson restaurant); in general, the
wines we tried in France were very drinkable but not that exciting to
our California palates which have become accustomed to strong reds.
But we have only begun to scratch the surface of French wines.
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Farmer Rowyn learns her trade
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Rowyn helped out planting rocket, oregano, courgettes (English and
French word for zucchini) and other things. Recently we got an email
from Chelle that everything's coming up nicely in their garden. Well
done, Rowyn!
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Friday is the big market day in Thouars, another
nearby small city. This is a huge Friday market, combining
elements of a flea market and farmer's market, plus a large indoor
space with butchers, fishmongers,
bread, cheese, eggs, and pastries. Unfortunately, it was near the end of
our stay, so rather than stocking up, we settled for buying our final
dinner ingredients and some travel food for our trip home on
Saturday. A great way to spend the morning.
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Naomi practices her future teenage babysitting profession
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Friday
afternoon we took in one more
castle, Château
d'Ussé, otherwise known
as the Sleeping Beauty Castle. [snagged from a website: The
inspiration for the fairy-tale castle in Sleeping
Beauty: Charles Perrault, the author of the popular tale, was so
impressed he decided on this castle as the setting of his story.]
It really is a lovely castle, with lots of turrets. One of the towers
has a Sleeping Beauty exhibit with dressed up manikins scattered
through several rooms (up the winding
staircase), which totally thrilled the girls.
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Château d'Ussé (Photo by Naomi)
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We regretfully headed home Saturday morning.
Fortunately, our return connections were all smooth and easy
(including sitting in 1st class from Tours to Paris because there were
no seats in 2nd class - the conductor didn't charge us extra when we
explained), and we
got home without adventure late on Saturday 17 April. All-in-all,
another successful expedition. We all practiced our French and found
the people we met to be extremely helpful and nice (even when they knew
we were Americans). One final note: for the Paris
connection between train stations, we took the Metro and crossed the
Seine on an elevated line from which you could just make out
Notre Dame. A Paris trip is in the works at some point as the
girls want to see the city where Madeline lives in a house covered
with vines...